Sunday, September 27, 2009

Red sauce

Recipe from Hedonia

1/2 lb button mushrooms, finely diced
1 onion, finely minced
several cloves garlic, minced or pressed
1 good fistful of dried porciniSausage, sweet and/or hot
1 26-oz box Pomi strained tomatoes, or one 29-oz can tomato puree (I prefer Contadina)
1 6-oz box tomato paste (again, Contadina, please)Olive oilSplash of wine (red or white, whatever you prefer)
Stock or watersalt, pepper, oregano

Put your dried mushrooms in a jar or other lidded container and cover with almost-boiling water to cover; steep for 15-20 minutes. Drain, reserving the brown stock, squeezing out as much excess liquid from the mushrooms as possible. Coarsely chop the mushrooms and set aside.

In a large Dutch oven, brown the sausage in a small amount of olive oil on all sides, and set aside. Add the onion and garlic -- just enough to cover the bottom of the pan -- adding oil as necessary to keep from sticking or burning. Cook until translucent, and scoop out and set aside. Repeat with the remaining onion and garlic, if necessary, until done. Add the mushrooms in the same fashion, cooking only enough at a time to cover the bottom of the pan, until dark brown and highly aromatic. (Always salt as you go, but you knew that, right?)
Once the last of the mushrooms are cooked, reintroduce all the previously cooked mushrooms, onion and garlic. Add the tomatoes, tomato paste, splash of wine, chopped porcini and the mushroom stock. Mind the stock -- it may have some grit from the mushrooms, so pour carefully, leaving a trace behind. (You could of course strain that off first.) Bring to a low boil, cover most of the way and reduce the heat to low. Keep at a low simmer, adding stock or water as necessary and stirring every 15-20 minutes. Be sure to scrape down the sides!
So when is adding more liquid necessary? Well, if instead of dainty little bubbles percolating to the surface of your sauce you get hoary, gloppy, volcanic GLOOPS, you might want to thin it out. Conversely, if the top of the sauce looks watery or transparent, it needs to cook down more. But stirring is of the essence, or you will end up with a layer of water over a layer of tomato mud. And that's no good.
Anyway, go on like this for, oh, three hours. Maybe more, maybe less. How do you know when it's done? I hate to be vague, but you will know. As if by some kind of pazzo alchemy, the sauce will magically begin to change. The color will turn more ruddy and brownish, and the aroma will become deeper and more savory. And the sauce -- if you've been stirring it! -- will take on a consistent, gravy-like texture. I mean, sauce-like.
Season to taste, reintroduce the meat if you used it, and cook another 20-30 minutes to meld the flavors. It's pretty good the day you make it, but it's always better at least a day later.

Now, if you're going to can the stuff, and I'm not saying you have to, for the love of Pete do not keep the meat in it. No point poisoning your loved ones with botulism, unless that's been your nefarious plan all along.
Reheat your sauce (cuz you made it at least a day ahead, remember?), and pour hot into freshly sterilized jars, canning according to the standard instructions. You'll have to read up on those somewhere else -- like here or here.

Now that's sauce from a jar I can deal with. Read more:

1 comment:

Hedonia said...

Hi Julie -- I am so flattered that you enjoyed my post on sauce, and I appreciate that you gave me a byline. I wanted to just gently let you know that it is generally best to ask permission before replicating others' content, as a matter of courtesy.

I recommend you read this excellent post by David Lebovitz on Food Blog Alliance that outlines the ethics and etiquette of recipe attribution. http://foodblogalliance.com/2009/04/recipe-attribution.php

Thanks!